Categories: How to Crochet

How To Crochet Amigurumi Skirt Shapes

When crocheting and creating patterns, it is important to understand why and how to create different shapes. When it comes to the princess skirt, they are usually big and billowy, like a ballgown, or they are loose, like a modern dress. To create these different shapes is simple, but can make the difference when creating a look.

This is an amazing photo my friend took of my dolls at Magic Kingdom! Most of these girls have ballgown skirt shapes.

I have written a 2 super basic patterns here for ballgown and straight skirts, as well as a pattern for the base of the skirt. When I am designing a pattern I always go back to these basic shapes, I use different colors or vary the size, but the structure of the pattern is always the same.

Ballgown:

The pattern I give you here is the pattern I use for Belle, but instead of Row 1, I work directly from the top of the dress. I also add a ruffle to the middle of the skirt to give her that extra Belle flare.

Simply put, it is increasing every row. The large increase in stitches causes the shape to round out, creating the illusion of a hoop skirt. When I am creating my dolls, I work in 6’s, so the pattern goes something like:

R1: magic loop with 6 stitches

R2: Sc (single crochet) 2 in each sc (12stitches)

R3: *Sc 1, sc 2 in next sc* repeat x6 (18sts)

R4: *Sc in 2, sc 2 in next sc* repeat x6 (24sts)

R5: *Sc in 3, sc 2 in next sc* repeat x6 (30sts)

R6-8: Sc in each sc. Tie off

I do 3 rows of even stitches at the bottom to make the skirt look more “natural”. The hoop in a skirt or petticoat is not at the bottom of the skirt, but rather about 3/4 of the way down. Therefore in order to make the shape realistic, the increasing of the size should happen about 3/4 of the way down.

If you are creating a larger doll, continue increasing until you reach the desired diameter of the skirt and increase the number of rows of even stitches accordingly.

 

Straight Skirt:

Although her arms and hair kind of hide her dress, you can see that Anna does not have a ballgown shaped skirt. Like Belle, I work her skirt directly from the top of her dress.
Moana has a straight skirt with no base so she can have feet that show.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Basically with this skirt we are making a cone. In order to create this look the pattern simply increases every other row. This slows the rate at which the skirt diameter increases, making a cone rather than a curved line. I am sure I could make a cute little graph for you, but I won’t let my math nerd side show that strongly 🙂 Once again, I like to work in 6’s so my pattern would look something like this:

R1: magic loop with 6 stitches

R2: Sc 2 in each sc (12sts)

R3: sc in each sc (12sts)

R4: *Sc 1, sc 2 in next sc* repeat x6 (18sts)

R5: sc in each sc (18sts)

R6: *Sc in 2, sc 2 in next sc* repeat x6 (24sts)

R7: sc in each sc (24sts)

R8: *Sc in 3, sc 2 in next sc* repeat x6 (30sts). Tie off

With this skirt I do not have several rows at the bottom of even stitches. When a skirt like this is drawn on a character they remain triangular shaped to the bottom, so I maintain that look. It also just looks awkward. I do make the bottom diameter as large as possible so the doll is able to stand on its own, the smaller the base, the less likely it is to be self standing.

Depending on the kind of doll you are creating, you may or may not want a base to your skirt. For most of my dolls I add a base, but for dolls like Moana or Tink (they both have straight skirts) I do not because I want the feet exposed. The benefit to having a base is that it closes the skirt, allowing you to stuff it and the doll can stand on its own.

 

Base:

Now when I first started, the few patterns I used made the base by just continuing from the end of the skirt, crocheting only on the inside loop of the last row and decreasing from there. I have found that this is not the easiest or cleanest way because the bottom tends to round out creating a Weeble Wobble effect. I crochet the base separately and sew it onto the bottom. This creates a cleaner edge and a flatter bottom.

 

R1: magic loop with 6 stitches

R2: Sc 2 in each sc (12sts)

R3: *Sc 1, sc 2 in next sc* repeat x6 (18sts)

R4: *Sc in 2, sc 2 in next sc* repeat x6 (24sts) Tie off.

You will notice that I do not increase to the full 30 stitches. This is so the base sits nicely inside the skirt and can be easily sewn on without creating that bottom bulge. I sew the base to the last row of the skirt (on the inside), stuffing the skirt once it is 3/4 of the way closed. Make sure to not over stuff, especially on straight skirt, because it can cause rounding out it unwanted areas. I then use the tail from the magic loop to sew up the middle of the skirt to insure that the bottom stays flat.

There you have it folks! If you have any questions about these patterns please feel free to Contact Me or leave a comment! I love hearing from you all 🙂

 

Jaclyn

I love crocheting, Jesus, and all things Disney! Follow me on Instagram @thecrochetqueendesigns

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